Paris, France

Bienvenue a Paris!

Some general info before we get started:
English Speaking cab number +33 1 41 27 66 99 (just a note--when dialing French numbers, replace the "0" in the prefix "01" with "+33").

You should probably buy a little mini map book to Paris when you get here, it's really indispensable. It's called Paris Pratique

As far as hotels are concerned, it might be best/most fun to stay in the 5th, 6th, or 4th arrondisements (Parisian districts--Paris is divided into 20 of these). The 6th is probably the most expensive and most American, the 4th (the Marais, it's called), has more of a gay nightlife but it's a GREAT to walk around during the day, and go out at night occasionally. The 5th is the Latin Quarter, and where a lot of college students live. It's probably cheaper and the least touristy, but also has the least to do right around where you'll be staying. Either way, you'll be fine!

As far as sites to see, I don't know how long you're there for, but hopefully the tour I outline below will be of some use—you can take it literally and do it in a few days, or you can just pick and choose what looks interesting. Either way, I start the “tour” in the 5th arrondisement and work my way around circularly going left (it might help to look at a map of Paris's arrondisements to better visualize what I'm talking about). http://www.parisnet.com/parismap.html



THE TOUR

PART 1: The Left Bank
So anyway, starting in the 5th arrondisement, if you want to see anything there, the Pantheon is cool--the upper part just looks like a church, but the building is steeped in history and is actually a sort of France Hall of Fame, since many famous Frenchmen are buried in the crypt below. You can google it to find out more about it, but it's pretty interesting.

Moving along through the 6th arrondisement, it's fun to walk along Blvd St. Germain--it's a very bustling main street w/ the medieval abbey St. Germain des Pres and famous cafes like Deux Magots--although just a warning--any time you go to a cafe in Paris along a main street, it will be significantly more expensive than if you were to go to a side street two blocks away. Slightly off Blvd St Germain is the Musee Delacroix, which is in the small house in which artist Eugene Delacroix lived until his death. Not a must-see, but definitely go if you appreciate his art.

Walk west on Blvd St Germain and you'll enter the chic, residential 7th arrondisement. Besides its beautiful residences, the 7th is also home to the French National Assembly (like the USA's Congress), as well as other government ministries. It's also quite touristy, home to the Eiffel Tower, Musee d'Orsay and Invalides.

Anyway, continue down Blvd St. Germain, and a street called Rue St Dominique forks off to the left. If you're sick of walking along a trafficked, main road, veer onto Rue St. Dominique--it's home to the imposing Ministry of Defense, as well as a beautiful old gothic church whose spires can be seen from the top of the Eiffel Tower. See it now, and try to spot it later from above!

If you keep walking down Rue St Dominique (or Blvd St. Germain, they end up at the same place), you'll reach a big field (champ, in French) with a building with a gold dome at one end--that's called Invalides, and it's a war memorial museum where Napoleon's tomb is located. Paris may stereotypically be considered a city that caters more to females, but men--especially war/history buffs, will LOVE Invalides!

Right behind Invalides is the Musee Rodin, which is a favorite museum of many. It’s a small house in a huge garden filled with Rodin sculptures (he does “The Thinker”).

From Invalides, the Musee d'Orsay is only a 5 minute walk, very easy if you consult a map. The Musee d'Orsay is a MUST-SEE, in my opinion more special and far more manageable than the Louvre (many visitors to Paris agree wholeheartedly with this sentiment). I took an avant-garde and impressionism class abroad, and spent many a 3-hr class period touring the museum!

Moving on...if you exit the Musee d'Orsay and walk to the side facing the Seine, you can catch a bus along that main road (roads along the Seine are referred to as Quai's) leading right to the Eiffel Tower.
Just a note about transportation: taxis, unlike in NYC, are VERY hard to find and are VERY expensive, so most people take the Metro or buses. Paris has taxi stands, however, where you can find taxis if you want to take one.
Regardless of how you get there, definitely visit the Eiffel Tower if you've never been. Behind the famous monument is the Champs de Mars: the field where French soldiers used to train. Like the grassy area at Invalides (called the Esplanade des Invalides), the Champs de Mars is steeped in history, but also a lovely, manicured area of open grass where Parisians picnic, throw a frisbee or play a weekend pickup game of soccer. Both fields are framed by soft dirt paths on which many people enjoy jogging or a brisk walk--one of the few places you might actually catch a Parisian exercising!

When you arrive at the Eiffel Tower, don't be surprised to find an excessively long line of tourists eager to ascend. To help take the edge off your imminent frustration, bring a bottle of wine. You and your companions can sip while you wait in line, making the wait an experience itself!

When you, phew, finally reach the front of the line, take the elevator (or climb the stairs, if you dare) all the way to the top--don't just stop at the midpoint! You're certain to meet other tourists and make friends along the way. At the top, take a look at your Paris map and try to find the places you've been to, or place you'd like to go. Look east, and Invalides is easy to spot, as are the spires of that little church on Rue St. Dominique, and farther east, the Pantheon. Look toward the Seine and you'll see Notre Dame on Ile de la Cite, and slightly west of that--on the Right Bank--you'll see the Louvre. But those are all I'll mention--have fun and look for others on your own!
To heighten your experience, make a reservation at one of the restaurants at the Eiffel Tower's midpoint: Altitude 95, or the preeminent, Michelin star-rated Le Jules Vernes. Make these reservations in advance!


PART 2: The Right Bank's 8th and 1st arrondisements

After the Eiffel Tower, crossing the river you'll reach the 8th arrondisement on the Right Bank. The Right Bank is traditionally more commercial and fancier than the Left Bank, although the 7th (on the Left Bank) is fancy and residential as well. In the 8th, you have to walk along the Champs Elysees--it's a grand, famous boulevard along which Charles de Gaulle marched during WWII. It's home to many high-end stores, most famously, Louis Vuitton. It also a fair share of nightclubs and restaurants. Around Christmas time, the trees along the boulevard are adorned in festive blue lights, animated to seem as though they drip off the trees. Stunning!

Regardless of the time of year, you MUST stop at LaDuree for a pastry--Paris, and LaDuree in particular, is known for its delectable macaroons in creative flavors. Accompany your pastry with a cup of exotic tea or glass of champagne, and admire the ornate and oh-so-Parisian decor inside.

Walking along the Champs Elysees you've probably seen the giant Roman arch towering above the boulevard--that's the Arc de Triomphe: a triumphal arch built to honor the Frenchmen who fought in the Napoleonic Wars. If you're still thirsting to ascend Parisian monuments--or didn't have the chance to climb the Eiffel Tower--a stairway open to the public will lead you to the top of the Arc. It's another beautiful view of Paris, and a treat to view the city from a different viewpoint.
However, since you can see the monument from afar, you might want to skip walking up to the monument if your Paris visit isn't a long one. I say this because it's a much farther walk than it looks, and there's far more to see in the other direction!

Next stop: Monet's Waterlilies, Tuileries Gardens, and the world's most famous museum: the Louvre! All of this, in the 1st arrondisement:

To get to these places from the Champs Elysees, enter the nearest Metro station, and take the orange 1 line, in the direction Chateau de Vincennes. FYI: The directions of Paris Metro lines are always referred to by the final destination. So on the 1 line heading east, the last stop is Chateau de Vincennes. This may sound confusing, but consulting a Metro map makes traveling via Metro a lot easier! Also, of course, feel free to take a cab if you can find one, or travel on foot--it's about a 30min walk to the Louvre.

When you've successfully made it on the correct Metro line and direction (congrats!), get off at the Place de la Concorde stop (or, if you want to go directly to the Louvre, get off at the Musee du Louvre stop, which brings you directly inside the museum). The largest square in Paris, Place de la Concorde is adorned with ornate statues and fountains that represent other French cities, as well as a 3,000+ yr-old Obelisk in the center. It is also a square with heavy traffic, so crossing the square on foot can be treacherous and time-consuming. On the opposite side of the Place you'll see a gigantic ferris wheel--take the time to take a ride! It's thrilling.

Behind the ferris wheel is the Musee de l'Orangerie, home to Monet's worldfamous waterlilies. Viewing the waterlilies is quite an experience, and while you're there, take a quick walk through the small museum's permanent collection downstairs--you're sure to find some gems.

If it's a nice day, walk through the Jardin des Tuileries (the Musee de l'Orangerie is right at the garden's border; you can also take the 1 Metro line directly here, by getting off at the Tuileries stop. In the 16th century, this location was home to a clay quarry for tiles (tuilerie is "tile" in French), and in later, Queen Catherine de Medicis built a palace in its place (the Palais de Tuileries), as well as the accompanying Jardin des Tuileries. The palace burned down in 1871, opening the view from the gardens all the way to the Arc de Triomphe.

Walking through the majestic gardens and will lead you directly to the Louvre. The famous museum of course has myriad treasures to admire, but don't miss the French painting permanent collection, including Ingres, Delacroix, David and many others. But whatever you choose to view, enjoy the museum--the world's history is your oyster! If you're hungry, Cafe Marly is a delicious, chic restaurant located in the plaza outside the museum. While you're outside the Louvre, admire the architecture and read up on it if you can--the sections of the Louvre were all built at different times, and have fascinating histories.


PART 3: Continuing west on the Right Bank

And now the fun part..rent one of those gray Velib' bicycles you've been seeing around Paris! (from wherever you are, just ask someone where the closest Velib stand is). They may be complicated to figure out, but ask a French person and they can help you do it--it's Paris's newest system of transportation, and costs only a Euro to ride a bike for an hour, and you can drop it off when you reach your destination at any Velib station you see. I always used them while I was there, and whenever friends visited I made them take Velibs as well, and the experience usually became one of their favorites of Paris!

Anyway, take the velib' (standing for velo--bicycle--and liberte--liberty) along the right bank of the Seine until you reach the Marais, in the 4th arrondisement. Specifically--and I'm giving you specific directions b/c it can be really confusing--a little bit after the Hotel de Ville (the mayor's beautiful chateau), make a left at Rue du Pont Louis Philippe, and up a little ways, right on Rue Francois Miron. If you keep riding you'll see the metro stop St. Paul, and right next to it is a place to drop off your bike. I rode that route a lot! Speaking of the metro stop...if you want to get to the Marais via Metro instead of bicycle, feel free, it's a lot easier!

Once you’re in the Marais, walk away from the Seine, onto Rue des Ecouffes for example, so you get to Rue des Rosiers--the heart of the historic Jewish district. It's really interesting to see it now, since traditional Jewish businesses are gradually being bought out by Levi Jeans and other touristy stores. However, this street is really well-known for its falafels—they’re delicious and you have to try them!
Make your way eastward, and you'll see really cool shops and old mansions of the French nobility--after the death of Louis XIV who reigned tightly over his nobility, the upper class moved from Versailles back into Paris, and built opulent palaces in the Marais, which now are museums or hold state archives.
You can walk through the gardens of one to enter the Place des Vosges, also steeped in history and a really beautiful, peaceful square. I'll get to restaurants after this, but there's a great place on this square called Ma Bourgogne that’s great for some steak tartare (which you must have while in Paris—it’s not as gross as it sounds, I promise), and a good glass of red wine. Also in the Marais is the Picasso Museum--if you feel like more museums you should check it out, he spent a lot of time in paris and it has lots of cool stuff! Then, you can take a bridge back to the Left Bank and then there you are, full circle and back in the 5th!

Another must-see destination is Ile de la Cite, home to Notre Dame and Sainte Chappelle. [say how to get there...]
As far as places that didn't fit into that little tour...my favorite little spot is an island on the Seine called Ile de la Cite, which originally contained the whole city of Paris. Sainte Chapelle can be found on this island, one of the most beautiful churches i've ever seen and considered the epitome of gothic architecture. A Must-see! Ile de la Cite is also home to the famed Notre Dame, which is also fun to walk through. Along the western tip of the island is a beautiful and tiny triangular park--I went here a lot and did my share of soul-searching here--it was my special place and if you're on the island, go take a look! It's right in the middle of the Seine and has a gorgeous view.


PART 4: Two must-see's that are off the beaten path

Montmartre:
You really have to go there--taking the green 12 metro line to the Abbessess stop is the easiest way to get there, it's not walkable or bike-able and a cab is really expensive. It's on a hill in what was traditionally not part of Paris, and is where all of the avant garde artists lived and worked. Sacre Coeur, the big domed, white church, can be seen from many areas of Paris, and is def worth a look. I love just hanging out up there--there's usually live music on the steps below sacre coeur, and you can see the whole city from this vantage point. Walk around up there too--it's touristy but absolutely adorable and looks exactly how you'd think Paris should be. Best of all it's removed and lacks the noise and bustle of the rest of the city--really special.

Pere Lachaise Cemetery:
This one's a question mark--it was one of my most memorable experiences in Paris, but it is REALLY REALLY out of the way so you might only want to go if you have extra time. It's where Jim Morrison is famously buried, as well as a ton of other distinguished people. With its winding paths, utter silence and crackling, ancient mausoleums, it's really one of the most beautiful places in Paris.


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CUISINE
And now, La Cuisine!

First, here’s a great website for dining in Paris: http://bestrestaurantsparis.com/en//

Advice for anywhere:
if you go to a cafe... a croque monsieur is like a french grilled cheese with gruyere and ham, and croque madame adds an egg. steak tartare is good pretty much everywhere. stop and get a crepe on the street (I’ve found them to be better than in restaurants), and try one with nutella and banana. Another great crepe is with egg and cheese (trust me here).

My highly-recommended favorites:
Paris is famously known for its delectably delicious food. One place you definitely have to is called Entrecote, it's in the 6th arrondisement just off Blvd St Germain, on Rue Marbeuf. They only serve one thing--a salad to start and then steak frites, but it's truly considered the best meal in Paris by tourists and locals alike. Also, it's casual and cheap.

As I mentioned earlier, definitely go to LaDuree on the Champs Elysees and if you want, Ma Bourgogne in the Place des Vosges in the Marais, as are the famous falafels on Rue des Rosiers.

Another really cool place to go is Cafe de l'Homme, in the 16th arrondisement, right across the river from the Eiffel Tower. It's a cool lounge for dinner/drinks in the Musee de l'Homme, and has a GORGEOUS view of the Eiffel Tower, especially as it sparkles at night for 10 mins every hour.

Another fun place to go is a small, cozy, authentic fondue restaurant in the 5th, called Au Piano Muet. We always took visitors here and it has truly unbelievable food. Its on 48 Rue Mouffetard, a festive street with little restaurants and bars and is fun to walk along.

Another one of my fave restaurants is Cafe de l'Esplanade, just to the right of Invalides (Napoleon's tomb/museum) in the 7th. A little more expensive but well worth it! Very popular with Parisian writers and fashion editors.

Café Marly is right across from the Pyramid entrance to the Louvre—a touch more expensive but great food and ambience, also fun to go just for a drink.

In the 6th, along Blvd St. Germain, Café Flore and Les Deux Magots are the most famous. Sofia Coppola is known to frequent Café Flore, and Les Deux Magots is where Hemmingway, Sartre and F Scott Fitzgerald wrote their novels... and the cheese plate there is really delicious.



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More recommended restaurants--from a list passed around friends in Manhattan

Georges at Centre Pompidou - amazing/great view of paris (both freinds/fam) very chic crowd... very modern inside (its on the top floor of the french modern art museum) - great for dinner and brunch - in summer/fall have an amazing outdoor patio

Pub St. Germain: open 24 hours/great foood and music/great bar lounge atmosphere/friends for dinner/late night, also has a happy hour betw 6 and 8pm

Lina's sandwich bar in the sixth on the jardins Luxembourg, which are really beautiful and you should definitely check out. It’s also fun to picnic in the park on a nice day.

Some super chic places that I'll mention are Maison Blanche, Pershing Hall and Hotel Costes which have exceedingly expensive food and posh Parisian bar scenes--if you're near any of them at night (they're all in the 8th), you can take a look and see what the snobby Parisians are like--these are the ppl that give the rest of Parisians a bad name, haha.

Asian:
Kong on Fridays turns in to a nightclub—really happening bar scene.
Ozu: on Sat turns into a nightclub after dinner, has an aquarium in the restaurant—really cool!
Bound: cool and chic, near the Champs Elysees, so it’s close to lots of nightlife

Alcazar (in the 6th arrondisement)- goood food chic really chic

Spoon Food and Wine: only open during weeknights.. very very good french food by alain ducasse but less expensive, more casual atmosphere
10, Rue Mayran 9th 01 40 16 40 29

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A restaurant list from an LA Times food critic:

Benoit: 20, rue St.-Martin, 75004 Paris (Métro: Chatelet); 01-4272-2576; fax 01-4272-4568; restaurant.benoit@wanadoo.fr. . Open daily for lunch and dinner. This is Alain Ducasse bistrot, very classic and delicious as well as expensive. Great tete de veau with ravigote sauce, escargots, tongue salad, cassoulet and blanquette de veau. One star.

Chez L’Ami Louis: 32, rue Vertbois, 75003 Paris (Métro: Arts-et-Métiers); 01-48887-7748. This is the wildly overpriced, but delicious and fun bistro that’s filled with Americans. You might see Omar Sharif or Woody Allen or other Hollywood people there. Need four people to make it economical. Get one order of the foie gras, maybe one other appetizer like the escargots, and one whole roast chicken. Skip the desserts. Drink the Crochet Sancerre and Chaves St. Joseph. Hard to get into, but you can keep calling for cancellations

Le Comptoir: Hotel Relais Saint-Germain, 9, Carrefour de l’Odéon (Métro: Odéon), 75001 Paris; 01-4329-1205 (think this is hotel number). OR 01-4427-0797; fax 01-4633-4530. Loved loved loved this one with the 42 euro prix fixe menu (no choices). The hottest bistro in Paris. Just keep calling to see if you can get a cancellation. Yves Cambeborde is the chef--he had La Régolade before this one.

Le Villaret: 13, r Ternaux, 75011 Paris (Métro: Parmentier); 01 4357- 8976; fax 01 4357- 7556 . Closed Saturday lunch and all day Sunday. Serves until 12 a.m. during the week and 1 a.m. on Saturday. This is the bistro with the great, moderately priced wine list.

Gaya Rive Gauche: 44, rue du Bac, 75007 Paris (Métro: Rue du Bac); 01-4544-7373; fax 01-4544-7373; p.gagnaire@wanadoo.fr. Closed Sundays and holidays and 1st to 20th August. Casual place for fish from 3-star chef Pierre Gagnaire.

Pinxo: Hotel Renaissance Paris Vendome, Plaza Paris Vendome, 9, rue d’Alger, 75006 Paris (Métro: Tuileries); 01-4020-7200; fax 01-4020-7202. Closed August. Nice for lunch if you’re going to the Louvre. Another casual, small plates restaurant, this time from Alain Dutournier. Great chipperones (baby cuttlefish) on a skewer with sweet red peppers. Also a great crunchy salad.


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NIGHTLIFE

Nightclubs and lounges:

General advice
Entry to Parisian clubs can be tough—and being American, and/or a girl, and/or wearing suggestive attire DOES NOT HELP as much as you think it would! Looking chic, nonchalant, and befriending in-the-know Parisians is probably your best ticket inside.

Chic/expensive/tough entry:
- Le Baron (any night- closed monday- kareoke sunday) great late - after 2
- Le BC (Black Calvados) - great on tuesday/wednesday then after 2 friday/sat
- Neo - Thursday through Saturday it’s a really hip place to be
- Maison Blanche – chic, gorgeous views of city, great for dinner and turns into a nightclub only 1-2 nights a week (Friday and/or Saturday, so if you’re interested in going, definitely call ahead of time to figure it out.

Fun crowd, easier entry, and still highly recommended:
- Showcase – Discotheque is underneath one of the bridges crossing the Seine, so it’s very unique! Difficult to get in mostly because there are often private parties there—including a handful for President Sarkozy. http://chicinparis.wordpress.com/2008/01/20/chic-in-paris-at-le-showcase/
- Queen is a night club along the Champs Elysees that doesn't have an obnoxious door and can be fun in a ridiculous, Euro trash sort of way
- Cabaret (le Cab) – moderately easy entry, less Euro trash and 16-yr old scene than Queen
Breaking the tough door mold are the following two latin dance clubs—both come highly recommended (or else they wouldn’t be on this list, duh)
- Barrio Latino (in the 12th on Rue de Faubourg St Antoine) is a really fun latin dancing place
- La Favela Chic - great on thursdays for dinenr and dancing – Brazilian


Bars:

While often not as chic as the clubs and lounges, Parisian bars are a fabulous, no frills and no fuss way to have a great time with friends.
- On Rue Princesse in the 6th, a teeny tiny street that you’d have to ask where it is, there are some fun bars with lots of Americans.
- Chez Georges - Great bar in the 6th, downstairs is dancefloor in old wine cellar / blasts israeli music (in the 6th)
- Bar du Marche – fun bar in the 6th, I believe it’s on Rue de Buci right off the main Blvd St Germain—great bar, very good crowd


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SHOPPING

For the girls (and interested/patient guys), shopping in Paris is an absolute MUST. Acknowledgement for this particular list must be given to Lili, for her superior shopping knowledge, and painstaking detail with which she described it.

Passports and duty-free info:
If you’re planning on doing some serious shopping (or even buying one significant item), be sure to take your passport with you, and ask for tax-free forms everywhere you go. Often, stores (especially department stores) will give you a discount upon showing a foreign passport, and from the tax-free forms you’ll be credited around 13-17% at the airport en route back to the states.

...and now the fun stuff!

Department Stores:

GALERIES LAFAYETTES
40 Boulevard Hausseman
Tel: 01 42 82 34 56
Metro: Chaussee d'antin la fayette

- Useful info:
• Bring your passport, you flash it and get an instant 10% off! This is great because they carry lines that you might be browsing in boutiques. It's also worth calling ahead to see if they have a bag that you might be considering buying elsewhere, to simply get it at a 10% discount. They carry most major labels, like Chloe, Prada, Alaia, Alain Mikli (cool glasses), Chanel etc.
• You can pay in most currencies, definately in the dollar.
• It’s very pretty and French on the inside but kind of big and overwhelming. i would not browse here bc i find it too cluttered and like the next one. . i come here if i know like something and have the oomph for extra 10% off. there's also not much around this neighborhood, it so i would come here with a predetermined purpose (e.g. in search of a specific purse that you know they have in stock).


LE BON MARCHE
24 rue de sevres
Tel: 01 44 39 80 00
Metro: Sevres Babylone

- Useful info:
• Galeries Lafayettes is great for the 10% off, but Bon Marche is so chic and pretty (and designed by Gustave Eiffel). Here’s an appropriate analogy for whoever’s familiar with NYC shopping: Galeries Lafayettes is to Saks, as Bon Marche is to Bendel’s/Barney’s. Get it?
• Bon Marché has a wonderfully unique, gourmet (and gigantic—just like Harrod’s in London, actually) foods store. Speaking of food, it also has Delicabar (http://www.notquitenigella.com/2008/07/25/delicabar-snack-chic-at-le-bon-marche-paris/) with a fabulous heated outdoor terrace.
• The brands are for real fashion lovers—they have an entire floor dedicated to secondary lines such as Paul and Joe Sister and Marc by Marc Jacobs, as well as Parisian boutique brands such as Zadig and Voltaire and ba&sh.


Great boutique shopping neighborhoods:

8th Arrondissement:
- Avenue Montaigne is the street where all the big labels are. It goes from the river to the Champs Elysee.
• Chanel: has a store exclusively for jewlery, Chanel Joallerie
• Dior: This store was just opened this year, it's great even just to look at the store's design. there's a decently okay jewlery section, great bag section, even a home decor section!
• Dolce & Gabbana, Celine, Jimmy Choo (they have different styles than in US or London), Valentino, Paul and Joe, Ungaro, Gucci, Marni and others.
• There is a great cafe on this street called l'Avenue. it's very chic and trendy, great for dinner or lunch, i think they may have stopped doing just coffee after 6, so say you want a drink at the bar... just sit and have coffee and... dessert of course!
• Scarlett: (10 Rue Clement Marot; Tel: 01 56 89 03 00) is a great vintage and consignment store that deals exclusively with Chanel. They have bags around 50% what they'd be usually and in great condition, they have a TON of earings, etc. It's located on the street perpendicular to Ave Montaigne two blocks after the Valentino store.

- Avenue George V is the street parallel to Avenue Montaigne. It’s home to the famed and luxurious George V hotel, as well as the following haute couture shops, among others:
• Balenciaga (10 Ave George V)
• Armani (41 Ave George V)

1st Arrondissement:
- Faubourg St Honoré: this street runs parallel to the Louvre / river on the right bank. It's great to walk along, stop in random little boutiques, for coffee near Place Vendome, or at Hotel Costes for a drink. But here are the highlights:
• Colette: (213 rue St. Honoré) you pretty much HAVE to stop by this store if just to say you've been there it's kind of one of those places, it's great trendy stuff, they were the first to get Kate Moss's top shop line, that kind of stuff.
• Fogal (380 rue St. Honoré)... this great store just for tights.. they have a ton of cute ones, totally worth a stop for some trendy but nto tacky ones. they're slightly less expensive than wolford and have alot more playful styles.
• Hermes (the mecca of this store) (24 rue St. Honoré)
• Bottega Venetta (14 rue St. Honoré)
• Azzaro (65 rue St. Honoré)
• Tod's (17-21 rue St. Honoré)
• Miu Miu (right off of it on rue st. Honore, (224 rue St. Honoré)
• Chloe (54-56 rue St. Honoré)
• Goyard (233 rue St. Honoré)... (It's right near Jean-Paul Hevin’s amazing chocolate shop (#231) with chocolate covered grapefruit rinds and other delectable delights... fun!)

- Galerie de Montpensier: To get into the shopping arcade, walk into the galeries on the inside of the square right up against the park.
• Gabrielle Geppart: (31-34 Galerie de Montpensier) They have some amazing condition BIG name clutches and bags. (i.e. mint condition Botega pouchy clutch for 400 euros).
• Marc Jacobs: right next door to Gabrielle Geppart; has a little section right when you walk in of little canvas bags and printed t shirts for 20 euros.
• Also, there are a couple other vintage stores there that may seem intimidating to walk into, but they have really unique, elegant items that are worth checking out.


6th Arrondissement:
The 6th is full of boutiques (some of whose brands can be found in the dept stores, but often it’s more fun—and a better selection—to go to the actual boutique instead). they're basically these brands that anyone in france would recognize. some have made it internationally, others are on the verge of international acclaim. they're great, mostly priced around 100-200 euros for a cute dress. you basically need to have a day shopping around this area and end up at bon marche for food at the cute cafe, and just to browse there.
But before that...not such little brands:
• YSL, 6 place st. sulpice
• Christian Lacroix 2 place St. sulpice
• Sonia Rykiel 194 boulevard st. germain
• Prada, 5 rue de grenelle

And now the smaller brands:
• Iro: (68 rue des Saint Pères; Tel: 01 45 48 04 06) Simple but flattering dresses made of silk or cotton, cute vests
• Paul and Joe: (64 rue des Saint Pères) It’s a line that's becoming really big in the US. Great coats and gloves, really cute jewlery
• Baby Buddha: (68 rue des Saint Pères) AMAZING jewlery store, kind of expensive
• Diab'less: 8 rue des Ciseaux, Tel: 01 55 42 01 09
• American Retro: (10 rue des vieux-colombier) The boutique’s name is a slight misnomer, as the style isn’t “American” at all. It’s funky, fresh and wearable though, and a good store layout as well (i.e. easy to browse). Definitely worth a visit! They have locations all around Paris.
• les Petites: (10 rue du four) Really great amazing cashmere sweater dresses amongst other things, like sequined dresses that are actually cute.
• ba& sh: (80 rue des st. peres, right at the corner before you make a right to go to bon marche) cute dresses, very flowy stuff. Multiple locations around Paris.
• Zadig and Voltaire: (a paris star)... cool cashmere sweaters that are long and super comfy, there's this red cashmere sweater dress that says elvis in gothic letters on the back that’s just great—and unique. These stores are also ubiquitous around Paris (including at high-end dept stores, in the 8th, 16th, 4th—basically, in all the great shopping areas.
• Sonia by Sonia Rykiel: (53 rue des st peres) great stuff (ex: sequined pink beret and little black dress, cool scarf that you decide the length... a little confusing).
• Sandro: another Parisian staple with multiple locations. A simpler, sleeker style, simply wonderful sweaters for winter—unique but useful and adorable! Pricey, but not over the top.
• Maje: (42 rue de Four) a really big parisian brand that is on its way out of France..they make some great stuff and they also have a good bag selection.
Mixed-brand stores that are great:
• Nanie: on st. germain
• Allison: (3 rue de Buci) this is on the other side of st germain in the sixth... ti's great they have a lot of see by chloe
• Biba: (18 rue de sevres) good but way to crowded on the weekends.. cute jewelry selection, but compromised by its tiny size.

If you get tired of shopping (which, considering this list, you might) and need a food break:

• On rue bonaparte, and this is by far worth the stop, is la duree (21 rue Bonaparte—there’s also a larger one on the Champs Elysées and in the 1st, on rue Royale). There’s also you must buy macaroons here. Some favorites are praline and cassis, make sure you try those! dont' bother with rose—it tastes weird. it's #21 rue bonaparte.
• there's also Cafe Armani, which it seems wierd that it's in an armani store, on 149 st., germain, but it's pretty good
• For more dining options around the 6th (and in general), flip to the guide’s “cuisine” section


3rd Arrondissement:

• Apara: (16 rue etienne marcel) This store has a great selection of little French labels. Particularly good dress selection, and fairly priced—most dresses range from 60-90 euros. A good, sweeping sampling of Parisian boutique style from the mainstream designers. (note: there’s a store next door with some great tops for 40 euros—definitely check it out post-Apara).

• Kabuki: (25 rue Etienne Marcel) This is kind of like Intermix of Paris—and great for shoes and bags.

• Killiwatch: (63 rue Tiquetonne) It’s kind of an awful French institution...large and slightly difficult to navigate, particularly since it’s a mix between new and vintage clothing and accessories. The merchandise ranges from eccentric shoes to furs, gloves and hats. Very French, unlikely to spot tourists here.

• Mode de Vue: (53 rue de Turenne) Random sunglasses store where the owner hunts down old high-end frames and re-does the lenses. They cost between 100 and 150 euros, and have lines like balenciaga and dior.


Misc. neighborhoods:

• Come on Eilieen: 16-18 rue des Thailiandiers
It's open from 4-8 pm on Saturdays (fairly odd hours), it's in the 11th (i.e. kind of
out of the way from central Paris), but it has very good vintage labels (for example, they had a great Lanvin clutch for less than 100 euros). If you walk due west, you hit the Marais.

• Anouschka. http://www.anouschka.fr/
This store is great, if you feel adventurous / dont really care about your credit card
bill. You must make an appointment first: it's basically for people who are
looking for a specific vintage piece (such as a 1920's Lacroix dress), or for stylists
looking for inspiration, etc.
Sizes unfortunately stop pretty low... i think around an 8 possibly... If you’re interested, call the store for more details: 01 48 74 37 00.